Italy Designers Like Sporty Look
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Date: Jul 04, 2099 By DANIELA PETROFF MILAN, Italy (AP) - The new Latin lover is a romantic rogue, a vacationing vagabond who would just as soon be seduced as do the chasing. The first Italian menswear collection for the new millennium - spring-summer 2000 - which previewed in Milan through Friday, offered relaxed styles based more on sportswear than office attire. Young models with short-cropped hair and clean-shaven faces - and torsos - strolled down the runway in clogs and slippers. Their bodies were gym-trained but never swarthy, their look dreamy rather than aggressive. ``You have to seem vulnerable these days,'' said young Italian actor Alessandro Gassman, son of Vittorio, one of Italy's most famous Latin lovers on and off the screen. Alessandro was a model at the Fendi show, wearing a crisp, white shirt, open on the chest, and a pair of graffiti-printed pants sure to be a hot item next summer. Overall, the summer look was laid back, with lots of cropped trousers from bike shorts to rollerblade pants, knitted sweaters and light, softly tailored jackets. Tank tops and T-shirts abound, and many shirts are unbuttoned to the waist. Geographic inspiration comes from the South Sea islands, with colorful shirts and pareo skirts, and the American West for the many cowboy belts, boots and soft leather frontier styles. Suits were few and far between, except at Armani, Calvin Klein and an ultralightweight town-and-beach version by Romeo Gigli. Technofabrics, such as combinations of paper with silk and linen or metallic wool for extra luster, give the collections an ultramodern thrust. Overall, the palette is gray-blue with some brown and black and lots of candid white. Pink is the latest shock shade. On many outfits buttons are replaced by zippers or Velcro fastening. Shoes rarely have laces. Perfect models for the new look were the five Backstreet Boys, currently making an Italian tour. Wearing white shirts over simple jeans from the latest Versus collection, they sang for Donatella Versace to the delight of the fashion crowd and screaming teen-agers waiting outside the Versus show for a glimpse of their idols. Following in alphabetical order is where to find the best of the new millennium spring-summer fashion. Armani: The suit of the season. Calvin Klein: White is a way of life. Dolce and Gabbana: Colorful beachwear and millennium grunge. Fendi: Great graffiti-printed pants. Ferre: Leather frontier styles. Gigli: The softest look in town. Gucci: Romantic ruffled shirts and brocade footwear. Missoni: Always the best knitwear. Prada: Luxury sportswear. Versace: The all-purpose shirtjacket and funky sequined bathing briefs.
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